The hood is held up by two struts, located at the back and on each side of the hood. Sometimes, as happened with me for an unknown reason, the little ball mount to which the strut attaches fails. This will result in a strut that is not in the correct position, making it hard for the hood to close.

Full procedure

1. To start, you will need a saw that can cut through metal. I suggest something like this, which will allow you to work in the rather small space in which the mount sits.
   You will also need a 4 mm and 5 mm hex key, a 8 mm wrench (depending on your ball stud), a small flat head screwdriver, a M6 ball stud with 10 mm ball, two washers (not too big, one won't fit under the bracket) and a M6 lock nut. Oh, and a roll of duct tape.

2. With your tools and replacement parts at the ready, you are good to go. Start by removing the lid of the fuse box, this will give you a bit more workspace.
3. There is a cable that runs on top of the fender and is connected to the mount with a plastic push-in clamp. You will need to remove this clamp because it interferes with the installation of the replacement parts. Compress the clamp and with a bit of wiggling it will pop out of the strut mount.
4. Secure the electric cable out of the way (you can use a zip tie to hold it to the sturdy metal hood mounts).
5. Start cutting the failed ball mount of the original mounting point with your metal saw. Be careful to not damage the mount (which happens faster than you may think). Start your cut just behind the lip that sits under the ball but before the mount welded to the fender. Your goal is to seperate the failed part with the part that still holds it to the car. You will need to keep the original bracket intact.


This is what the end result will be.

6. Once the ball is cut off from the mount, the other part behind the mount will also fall down. Retrieve both pieces and clean the area so that all metal shavings are removed.
7. Take a piece of duct tape and tape it over the hole in the fender that sits just below the strut mount. You do not want to have your lock nut fall in (ask me how I know). Also place a big piece of tape under the mount, but put it with the sticky side up. This will ensure that if you drop your replacement parts, they will not roll down further in inaccessible areas.
8. If you damaged the original bracket, clean it up a bit with some sandpaper. Then you can touch up the paint if you feel like doing so (and if you happen to have some spare paint).
9. With the mount prepped, you will notice that the M6 ball stud you bought is a bit too small for the hole in the bracket. That's why you'll need two washers. One washer will go in the front, the other in the back. This will provide a sturdy mounting point. A M8 ball stud is too big for the original hole, but I guess you could drill it out. I'm however not sure if the washers will fit under the bracket.
10. Put one washer over the M6 ball stud and take the other washer in your hand. Put the second washer with your finger (do not use gloves, this will make it harder!) under the bracket so it sits ready at the back. Put the M6 stud in the bracket and try to finaggle the stud through the second washer. A tip here is that you can use a small flat head screwdriver and put it through the top of the bracket to help you get the washer on.
11. With both washers on and the ball stud through the bracket, you just need to put in the lock nut. This will be tricky but I found it to be easiest with just my hands. You could use some sort of curved forceps to hold the lock nut in place, but I didn't find any suitable online. Try to clamp the lock nut with one finger to the back of the bracket (mind the orientation of the lock nut!) - you'll have to pull out the ball stud with the two washers as far as you can without letting the back washer fall down. With your finger holding down the lock nut, use your hand holding the ball stud to get the two parts to align and get the threads started.
12. With the ball stud started on the lock nut, you are basically done with the hard part. Congratulations!
13. You will notice that when you try to turn the ball stud to tighten, the lock nut will just rotate with the stud, and not tighten. You'll need to counterhold the lock nut, which is impossible to do in this small space.
14. Luckily, the Porsche engineers did (totally on purpose, I'm sure) leave a small space on top of the bracket (which you also used to get the washer on the stud with the screwdriver). Grab a 4 mm hex key and jam it in between the lock nut and the bracket from above (do not use the middle hole where the electrical clamp sits but rather the hole on the side). Grab a (in my case 8 mm) wrench and put it on the ball stud (there should be a flat area). Jam your hex key hard towards the lock nut, so towards the steering wheel of the car, and tighten the ball stud with the wrench.

15. You'll see that the lock nut will not move (much) and that the ball stud will be slowly tightened. After a while this may be more difficult, so the better option you have is to remove the 4 mm hex key and take a 5 mm hex key, and jam the short end of this larger instrument inbetween the lock nut and the bracket from below the bracket. This will be a bit more tight, especially if you combine it with a small flat head screwdriver from above (same hole as the 4 mm hex key).
16. Using the hex key and screwdriver, continue to tighten the ball stud with a wrench until you cannot tighten it any more.
17. Once everything is tight, remove all your instruments and the duct tape from the car. Grab some paint to touch up battered areas around the mount. Let it dry and then reconnect the electric cable clamp to the strut bracket. Put the cover of the fuse box back on.
18. Congratulations! You just repaired your strut mount. It should be ready for a new strut now!